View From The Top – Akbar Ayub

Heady heights: At the cliff top in Varkala.

 

If there is one place in Kerala that is fast catching up with Kovalam and its almost Bohemian beach culture, it is Varkala. Though not yet overrun with seafront cafes, seedy massage parlours, hotels and resorts, this once-sleepy coastal town looks all set to get there before long. Comparisons don’t end there however. Ironically, Varkala also carries the tag of a temple town. It is the headquarters of the Sree Narayana Dharma, located at the Shivagiri mutt here. This ashram is the final resting place of Kerala’s famed social reformer and saint, Sree Narayana Guru who preached “one caste, one religion and one God”. Then there is the famed Papanasam Beach. One dip in its holy waters and all your sins are believed to be washed away. There is salvation for the dead too — on the last day of the Malayalam calendar, a full-moon day, multitudes throng the beach offering prayers for the salvation of departed souls. There is more. The 2000-year-old Janardhana temple here is another landmark. This shrine, reflecting traditional Kerala temple architecture and dedicated to Vishnu, draws devotees in their droves during annual celebrations.

But back to the beach culture. Varkala, located 45 km north of Thiruvananthapuram, has a laid-back, relaxed atmosphere and a winning topography. Right at the fringe of the beach there are headlands that rear up nearly 100 feet above the shore, affording a panoramic view of the surroundings. Understandably, this plateau spawned the growth of mushrooming hotels and resorts that began to attract backpackers. Then the Taj Garden Retreat of the Taj Group came up down town, drawing well-heeled foreign tourists. The beach culture though is limited largely to the high plateau, with its sea-facing cafes dolling out spicy Kerala seafood and spirits, keeping the rest of the town generally free of teeming tourists. A mile-long meandering road connects the town with the cliffs. While the Pappanasam beach and the rejuvenating springs draw pilgrims in droves, the white sandy beaches, laterite cliffs and the rolling breakers attract worshippers of a different kind. It’s only during the monsoons that sea erosion and the heavy rains render the beach less hospitable.

Winning scenery

And then, there is Kappil beach, 28 km away, and the adjoining backwaters that attract visitors through sheer scenic brilliance. There is this exquisite interplay of land and water. At some places, only an elevated road fringed by swaying coconut palms, keeps the sea away from the inland waters. Then there is the beautiful Ponnuthuruth Island near Nedungad village. Enveloped in backwaters, the verdant palm-covered island is uninhabited save for a 100-year-old Shiva-Parvathi temple standing amidst thick coconut groves. According to legend, queens of the Travancore royal family, on the pretext of visiting the temple would discretely hide their cache of gold and jewellery on the island to keep them safe. Hence Ponnuthuruth or golden island.

For a small fee a boatman will be only too happy to take you on a late evening boat ride to the island under a full moon. Miss it and you miss an enchanting experience. Or hire a boat and head for the Anjuthengu backwaters nearby and you could see a quintessentially Kerala activity: coir making. You can observe the intricacies of this active vocation of the locals — from soaking the coconut husk in the waters and removing the fibre to twisting it into bales of rope. In between, you can also see another avocation of rural Kerala: toddy tapping. Step out at dawn to see nimble-footed workers scurrying up the slender palms to collect earthen pots brimming with the nectar from nascent palm flowers. The sweet raw toddy is actually quite refreshing and, surprisingly, non-alcoholic. It’s only when the stuff is fermented overnight that it gains potency.

Historical sites

Care for history? Then head for the Anjengo fort located 15 km away and built by the Portuguese in 1695. The Queen of Attingal is said to have granted them permission for its construction on the slice of land called Anjuthengu. It is not very formidable to look at though, being an enclosed bastion with a bulwark of high walls and lookout points. A masonry canal built later by the British to transport merchandise to the fort still exists. Nearby is the 130-feet tall Anjengo lighthouse built in 1980. The ruins of one of the earliest factories set up by the British East India Company, built in 1684, can also be found here. The 15-km ride from Varkala however, takes you past charming coastal villages and yet another beautiful beach at Chilakoor village. Fringed by casuarinas groves, the beach offers delightful scenes of fiery sunsets.

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Fact File Getting there

Road: Scenic roads connect Varkala to Thiruvananthapuram (55 km) and Quilon (35 km).

Train: Almost all trains from Thiruvananthapuram halt at Varkala.

Air: Nearest airport is Thiruvananthapuram

Tourist info

Tourist facilitation centre on the helipad cliff is open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m. daily.

Government guesthouse information counter (Ph: 0471-2602227) provides free of cost road maps, tourist brochures, private accommodation options, list of restaurants and approved Ayurvedic and yoga centres and booklets with lists of government guest houses in the State.

Tourist information counter at the railway station, Ph: 0471-2602126.

Places to Stay

Most of the accommodations is strewn across the higher (helipad) and lower (Papanasam beach) cliff tops. The helipad cliff boasts the maximum numbers but teems with tourists. The lower cliff is much less crowded and more peaceful. The downtown Taj Garden Retreat (Ph: 0470-2603000) is 4-star while the government guesthouse just opposite offers spacious rooms at down-to-earth rates. For bookings, contact Protocol officer, General Admin Dept, Secretariat, Thiruvananthapuram, Ph: 2327377.

Fax: 2325682. Sea Pearl Chalets (Ph: 0470-2605875) and Villa Jacaranda (Ph: 0470-2610296) on the south cliff provide peace and and value for money.

When to go

Like Kovalam the season extends from October to March. Though the beach is idyllic, strong undertows preclude serious swimming. Monsoon is best avoided, as the sea turns quite rough.

Charmed by a River

A visual and spiritual feast:The Chalakudy river

The birds are on a high and the air is filled with their toot and tootle. Underneath, the gurgling river tries to keep pace. A willowy breeze sweeping through the bamboo groves rustles its crisp, spiky leaves, adding to the medley. The resulting symphony is magical.

Some 75 km northwest of Kochi — Kerala‘s bustling seaport — lies the trading town of Chalakudy. And a short 5 km away flows the river that carries its name. Go another few kilometres and you are at the Athirampally falls. Here, water gushes over a large rocky knoll in white, effervescent waves. As you get closer, you feel the wetness; then you are surrounded by a fine mist, cool and bracing against your skin.

Athirampally falls.

If you are a nature lover, be here at the break of dawn — and give yourself up to the magic in the air. You’ll find yourself being led downstream, as if by an unseen force, to an enchanting spot where, the river seems to bare its soul.

Beneath a painted sky, you’ll find the Chalakudy River overwhelmingly dominating the scene. Neither the overgrown trees lining the banks nor the lush vegetation all around seem to diminish its arresting presence. In its gurgling flow, you sense a certain indescribable quality — a tranquil gentility, suffused with a vibrant energy.

This November morning — after a long, vigorous monsoon — the river is swollen and flows at a crisp pace here, sweeping majestically through a bend upstream, and about 70 meandering miles from its source in the higher reaches of the Sholayar ranges. Scattered rocks, sculpted into round domes by the constantly flowing water, dam up the flow momentarily, creating small cascades — curving sheets of water — that plunge over them. Billows of spray shoot into the morning air. As the sun climbs up, shafts of orange-yellow light filter through the canopy overhead and blobs of light dance on the rippling surface like prancing doe.

Close to the bank, in the lee of a rocky mole, fallen leaves rollick in miniature whirlpools. And a pair of terns, eager for breakfast, finds it a perfect feeding ground. Vigilant and waiting, they catch silvery fish that flip into the air, swallowing them swiftly with few jerks of their upturned head. Kingfishers, adopting a different strategy, sweep down from limbs of trees leaning delectably into the water. Diving into the river, they come up abruptly with a quivering small fry clamped between their pointed beaks.

Life thrived here, nurtured and sustained by the river. It is as if every living thing here is rejoicing and celebrating the lift of a vibrant life nourished and enriched not only by the waters of the river but also by the sun, the winds, the very earth; in fact all the elements of nature combining in a benevolent effort, striving towards one aim — uphold and sustain the magic called life. And here, you feel connected to it. Here, you glimpse the soul of the river.

Deep echoes

About 12 km upstream, you come to Vazhachal — another waterfall, where, in sylvan surroundings, water plunges about 80 feet in white roiling froth. A body of water anywhere – a lake, river, stream or the sea — has a certain quality that touches your finer sensibilities, your deeper self. That feeling is inescapable here.

From Vazhachal, if you drive upstream, eastward, you climb further into the Sholayar ranges of the luxuriant Western Ghats. “Nearly 40 rivers spring from the Western Ghats and flow into the Arabian Sea or into the back waters,” says Cherian, the forest officer at an outpost on the way. A narrow strip of land fed by 40 odd rivers and cradled by the Arabian Sea on one side and the mountains of the Western Ghats on the other. That sums up the geography of this swath of land called Kerala. It also explains why its greenery is so rich, its flora so vibrant.

Cruising down the smooth highway, you’ll find it hard to keep your eyes on the asphalt ribbon stretching in front, hugging the undulating landscape, and at the same time savour the visual feast around you. As the road sweeps uphill, you begin to feel light-hearted; your spirits buoyant… then you realise you owe it perhaps to the oxygen rich air in the surrounding forest.

Balan Nair, the greying but lanky and moustachioed owner of a quaintly charming inn by the roadside is quite knowledgeable about the Ghats. “The Western Ghats,” he says, “is recognised worldwide as a biodiversity hotspot. It is home to threatened flora and fauna. Ignorance and man’s greed have together destroyed a lot of its richness. Fortunately, some conservation efforts are now on.” And having partaken of the richness of this land, you hope that these efforts bear fruit.

The meandering rivers, delightful waterfalls and the cool mountain air, all make for an unforgettable experience — another facet of Kerala.

On the path of revival

The Theyyam or Kaliyattam season is in full swing in the northern districts of Kannur and Kasaragod in Kerala. The annual season is from the 10th of the Malayalam month of Thulam and lasts till the end of Medam (mid May).

Theyyam, a corrupt form of Deivam (God), is a fascinating and colourful ritualistic performance combining dance and music, with a centuries-old tradition. It is confined to the erstwhile Kolathunadu (ruled by the Kolathiris) of northern Kerala. The performances, generally held during nights, are socio-religious ceremonies. The performers, with unique and colourful costumes, headgear and facial and body make up called Kolam, represent the deities. During the performance lasting for hours, they are supposed to be transformed into the deities in a state of trance. The Theyyam performer is the medium for the deity to come to life with divine powers, to invoke blessings and make pronouncement on worldly affairs. They are instrumental in preserving social order and justice.

Infinite variations

The performances, with lively footwork and rhythmic body movements, are held at various places of worship such as kaavu (sacred grove), Mundya, Kottam, Kazhakam, or at family houses and the entire village participates. The total number of Theyyams is more than 400, according to the local variations. The legendary Manakkadan Gurukkal of Karivellur had codified the stylisation of major Theyyams: he is described as the creator of the modern form of Theyyam, though its history dates back 1500 years. Each Theyyam, representing various mythological and local heroic figures, has its own style of performance, dance, music, costumes and ornaments of artistic appeal.

Changing fortunes

During the olden days, almost all families used to have an annual Theyyam performance. With the advent of nuclear families, the practice was virtually fading out. Recently, there has been a great revival of interest in Theyyam. Earlier, Kaliyattam was carried out only at the sacred spots. It was during the 1970s that the performances moved out beyond north Kerala and became a universal ritual folk dance. Because of its unique and larger than life image and attendant musical elements, it has now become a part of the tourism packages. In the past, when electricity was not even dreamt of, the ritualistic stylisation and the colours were devised to captivate with the lighting of coconut leaf bundles (called choottu), oil lamps and cloth dipped in oil tied round the tip of a wooden stick (pantham). With current day performances being held with the milky glow tube lights, the bright red and green colours do not have the aura of divine appeal it used to have.

The performances last from one to five or seven days and there are several hundred festive spots in Kannur and Kasaragod districts. The most important deity is performed by the same person every year. The Payyanur Municipality’s annual calendar of Theyyam festivals in and around the area lists nearly 80: Out of these 46 Kaliyattams last only for a day and a night. Nearly 15 are for two days and the rest for three to five days. There are places where the Kaliyattam is held once in 12, 14 or 21 years, and is then called Perumkaliyattam and one such place is the Karamel Muchilodu, near Payyanur. The last festival at Karamel was conducted a couple of years ago and a record 30 lakh people participated in the festival.

According to Karunakaran Nambiar, Working President of the Festival Committee, the entire expense of Rs. 30 lakhs for the festival at Karamel Muchilodu was raised by donations and offerings. Karamel is a part of the Vellur village near Payyanur in Kannur district: the village alone has nearly a dozen places where Kaliyattam is held annually. The number of the audience range from 25,000 to a lakh or more in these places and the expenses also vary from Rs.10,000 to Rs. One lakh. This is representative of almost all the villages in the area where Theyyam performances are held.

In the Koodali Thaazhathu Veedu, near Kannur, the Theyyam festival is an annual event conducted by the family trust consisting of 130 members. There are three kottams attached to the family. The Trustees are the eldest nine (six male and three female) members of the family. They meet once a month and conduct the affairs of the family. Unlike in other families, there is a common house(where the eldest member lives) and a temple. The annual festival, starting with the Kuttichchaththan Theyyam and ending with Khandakarnan, lasts for four days. The performance is conducted out of the donations of family members and from the funds of the Trust. The performers say that the prestige of performing here matters. If a performer has staged a Theyyam at Koodali, his market value elsewhere shoots up manifold, probably a vestige of the feudal system.

Adapting tradition

In the olden days, the performers and their families, after a rigorous training, eked out a living out of the income obtained during the season. They used to get paid mostly in paddy, rice and coconuts and vegetables. Out of season, they were involved in physical labour, when available. But now things have changed: it is season all through, especially with booming tourism and cultural festivals. But the question remains: Do they retain the old spiritual appeal? With changing times, such ethereal aspects are also fading out, unable to survive in the era of new technologies. The late Kannan Peruvannan of Karivellur, who had done 250 performances and was an astounding authority on Theyyam, felt that for want of talented artists, there was no future for Theyyam and that it was in moribund state. Fortunately, the younger generation has proven him wrong, as the spectacle of Theyyam is flourishing and has spread far and wide.

Author: K. KUNHIKRISHNAN

A Past to Revel In

True culture and flavour, they say cannot be found in the palatial and newly sprung resorts, but in the peace of homes and the warmth of the hearts that serve. At Anthraper Gardens, you can bask in complete and absolute serenity, the energy and hospitality of the souls there, and if that is not enough, revel in stories and history that not only enthralls you, but leaves one searching for more. That is what the place does: it surprises, questions and even answers before you ask!

Situated in Cherthala, Alappuzha, close to the now popular Marari town bustling with resorts and hotels, Anthraper Gardens rises above the ordinary. Simplicity and originality are undoubtedly its forte, but within its walls lays a hidden agenda of exploration and discovery.

My quest is a good one hour drive from Kochi to a portion of the earth jutting into the placid backwaters. Water moves silently on three sides, froth and water hyacinths floating on its soft belly. The white-washed walls of the house are still squeaky clean, the terracotta floor polished to a gleaming red. A living area of antique furniture, family portraits and the old radio that once aired English programmes of Air Ceylon. Memories of children and adults gathering around the box, eager for the strum of Elvis Presley’s guitar and news aired in a British-Sinhalese accent. There are grand parents and great grandparents, children and in-laws, in crisp suits and brocade saris, tales of wealth, laughter and a life well lived. Little, it seems, remains of the enigmatic past, members having moved on, and the house removed to the status of a holiday home. But inside, the prayer room replete with pictures of Christ and every conceivable catholic saint continues to hold the deep spiritual ambience, the rosary diligently said every evening, even almost a hundred years since the house had been built. House keepers still run around, the patter of children’s feet and a trail of never ending guests (from priests to politicians) now been replaced to the exclusive few who come by to stay.

Anthraper Garden’s enigmatic past remains alive as I meet Thankama Anthraper, the grand lady of the household. She regales in their exuberant past, the history of the family and her ancestors.

An Ancient Tale

A Portuguese man Andrew Pereira and his wife Catherina reached the shores of Cochin in the 16th Century. Aboard Vasco da Gama’s ship along with their son Diego, I am taken, who sailed the rough seas to make Kerala their home. After generations of pure-blooded Portuguese, almost two centuries later, she explained, change emerged when an ancestor married a local girl Anna, to begin a new line of the Anthrapers. But the house was built much later, a summer house largely, a soulful rest from their home in the hills. In time, it transformed to the place that witnessed births and marriages, the playground for her great- grand children and where she now resides.

Built by her father-in-law, the old portion of the house with a courtyard, high ceilings and verandas are embellished with memorabilia and varied collections of old. Old crockery behind glass and teak cupboards, a gigantic banquet table, a corner of the house that once worked as an office re- furbished to accommodate guests. Large, airy rooms (all of four) its decoration of yesteryear still intact, books and albums for reference, a coffee-corner, planter’s chairs on the verandas, the granaries outside that stored grain, even the old barber’s chair as they call it (men-folk, both young and old had their hair cut perched upon it) offer those details unavailable elsewhere. Anthraper Gardens had always been a must stop for passers-by in Cherthala, and a few years back, after being immersed into a period of slumber, the clan decided to open their doors to visitors once again. Soon old friends revisited and new became friends. Sisters Omana, Leela, Kunjumol, Shantha and Rani have delegated work between themselves, for crisp, clean linen to the best of Syrian Christian food.

Tasty Dishes

Recipes passed down generation found revival in the kitchen, they explain, churned out by cook Omna who from being kitchen helper grew to head chef, her karimeen pal curry, kozhi piralen and pachadi (cucumber in spiced yogurt) highlights of an everyday meal. Guests join the family for dinner, otherwise are served in a private dining area, close to the serene water and the wet wings of the sea gulls flapping at a distance. Family members are around when needed. And if tours around Cherthala are necessary, then Arthingal beach, churches and a ride on an elephant are quickly arranged. But almost all who arrive at the house choose to rest at its peaceful grounds.

For that desperate tan or a chat with the stars. Either way, company is only when requested. And as the sun sets and the sky turns a warm purple, glasses of fresh kallu (toddy) clink, books are upturned and bodies sprawl in hammocks. And at a distance one can hear an old Malayalam folk song echo from a lone canoe.

Getting There

Anthraper Gardens is situated 60 km from Kochi. Kochi has an international airport at Nedumbassery, a railway junction and is a sea port. NH 17, 47 and 49 passes through the city. Cherthala is also connected to Alappuzha by its beautiful backwaters.

For more details, contact:

Anthraper Gardens Homestay Anthraper Estates Pvt. Ltd. Cherthala, Kerala India. Pin: 688524 Ph: +91-478-2813211 E-mail: ranibachani@sify.com, stay@anthrapergardens.com

Author: TANYA ABRAHAM

Avial Saga

Avial Saga is a compilation of articles, clippings and travelogues about Kerala published on the net, magazines, newspapers etc. The intention is purely to generate awareness about the culture, cuisine, places and people of the God’s Own Country.

I hope through this medium I would be able to reach out to all those malayalees who do not know much about their home state and also to all those friends who admire Kerala’s beauty as truly divine.

All credit goes to the travellers and writers who have taken pains to bring the unexplored parts of this beautiful southern state.

Happy Reading !