A Past to Revel In

True culture and flavour, they say cannot be found in the palatial and newly sprung resorts, but in the peace of homes and the warmth of the hearts that serve. At Anthraper Gardens, you can bask in complete and absolute serenity, the energy and hospitality of the souls there, and if that is not enough, revel in stories and history that not only enthralls you, but leaves one searching for more. That is what the place does: it surprises, questions and even answers before you ask!

Situated in Cherthala, Alappuzha, close to the now popular Marari town bustling with resorts and hotels, Anthraper Gardens rises above the ordinary. Simplicity and originality are undoubtedly its forte, but within its walls lays a hidden agenda of exploration and discovery.

My quest is a good one hour drive from Kochi to a portion of the earth jutting into the placid backwaters. Water moves silently on three sides, froth and water hyacinths floating on its soft belly. The white-washed walls of the house are still squeaky clean, the terracotta floor polished to a gleaming red. A living area of antique furniture, family portraits and the old radio that once aired English programmes of Air Ceylon. Memories of children and adults gathering around the box, eager for the strum of Elvis Presley’s guitar and news aired in a British-Sinhalese accent. There are grand parents and great grandparents, children and in-laws, in crisp suits and brocade saris, tales of wealth, laughter and a life well lived. Little, it seems, remains of the enigmatic past, members having moved on, and the house removed to the status of a holiday home. But inside, the prayer room replete with pictures of Christ and every conceivable catholic saint continues to hold the deep spiritual ambience, the rosary diligently said every evening, even almost a hundred years since the house had been built. House keepers still run around, the patter of children’s feet and a trail of never ending guests (from priests to politicians) now been replaced to the exclusive few who come by to stay.

Anthraper Garden’s enigmatic past remains alive as I meet Thankama Anthraper, the grand lady of the household. She regales in their exuberant past, the history of the family and her ancestors.

An Ancient Tale

A Portuguese man Andrew Pereira and his wife Catherina reached the shores of Cochin in the 16th Century. Aboard Vasco da Gama’s ship along with their son Diego, I am taken, who sailed the rough seas to make Kerala their home. After generations of pure-blooded Portuguese, almost two centuries later, she explained, change emerged when an ancestor married a local girl Anna, to begin a new line of the Anthrapers. But the house was built much later, a summer house largely, a soulful rest from their home in the hills. In time, it transformed to the place that witnessed births and marriages, the playground for her great- grand children and where she now resides.

Built by her father-in-law, the old portion of the house with a courtyard, high ceilings and verandas are embellished with memorabilia and varied collections of old. Old crockery behind glass and teak cupboards, a gigantic banquet table, a corner of the house that once worked as an office re- furbished to accommodate guests. Large, airy rooms (all of four) its decoration of yesteryear still intact, books and albums for reference, a coffee-corner, planter’s chairs on the verandas, the granaries outside that stored grain, even the old barber’s chair as they call it (men-folk, both young and old had their hair cut perched upon it) offer those details unavailable elsewhere. Anthraper Gardens had always been a must stop for passers-by in Cherthala, and a few years back, after being immersed into a period of slumber, the clan decided to open their doors to visitors once again. Soon old friends revisited and new became friends. Sisters Omana, Leela, Kunjumol, Shantha and Rani have delegated work between themselves, for crisp, clean linen to the best of Syrian Christian food.

Tasty Dishes

Recipes passed down generation found revival in the kitchen, they explain, churned out by cook Omna who from being kitchen helper grew to head chef, her karimeen pal curry, kozhi piralen and pachadi (cucumber in spiced yogurt) highlights of an everyday meal. Guests join the family for dinner, otherwise are served in a private dining area, close to the serene water and the wet wings of the sea gulls flapping at a distance. Family members are around when needed. And if tours around Cherthala are necessary, then Arthingal beach, churches and a ride on an elephant are quickly arranged. But almost all who arrive at the house choose to rest at its peaceful grounds.

For that desperate tan or a chat with the stars. Either way, company is only when requested. And as the sun sets and the sky turns a warm purple, glasses of fresh kallu (toddy) clink, books are upturned and bodies sprawl in hammocks. And at a distance one can hear an old Malayalam folk song echo from a lone canoe.

Getting There

Anthraper Gardens is situated 60 km from Kochi. Kochi has an international airport at Nedumbassery, a railway junction and is a sea port. NH 17, 47 and 49 passes through the city. Cherthala is also connected to Alappuzha by its beautiful backwaters.

For more details, contact:

Anthraper Gardens Homestay Anthraper Estates Pvt. Ltd. Cherthala, Kerala India. Pin: 688524 Ph: +91-478-2813211 E-mail: ranibachani@sify.com, stay@anthrapergardens.com

Author: TANYA ABRAHAM