A visual and spiritual feast:The Chalakudy river
The birds are on a high and the air is filled with their toot and tootle. Underneath, the gurgling river tries to keep pace. A willowy breeze sweeping through the bamboo groves rustles its crisp, spiky leaves, adding to the medley. The resulting symphony is magical.
Some 75 km northwest of Kochi — Kerala‘s bustling seaport — lies the trading town of Chalakudy. And a short 5 km away flows the river that carries its name. Go another few kilometres and you are at the Athirampally falls. Here, water gushes over a large rocky knoll in white, effervescent waves. As you get closer, you feel the wetness; then you are surrounded by a fine mist, cool and bracing against your skin.
Athirampally falls.
If you are a nature lover, be here at the break of dawn — and give yourself up to the magic in the air. You’ll find yourself being led downstream, as if by an unseen force, to an enchanting spot where, the river seems to bare its soul.
Beneath a painted sky, you’ll find the Chalakudy River overwhelmingly dominating the scene. Neither the overgrown trees lining the banks nor the lush vegetation all around seem to diminish its arresting presence. In its gurgling flow, you sense a certain indescribable quality — a tranquil gentility, suffused with a vibrant energy.
This November morning — after a long, vigorous monsoon — the river is swollen and flows at a crisp pace here, sweeping majestically through a bend upstream, and about 70 meandering miles from its source in the higher reaches of the Sholayar ranges. Scattered rocks, sculpted into round domes by the constantly flowing water, dam up the flow momentarily, creating small cascades — curving sheets of water — that plunge over them. Billows of spray shoot into the morning air. As the sun climbs up, shafts of orange-yellow light filter through the canopy overhead and blobs of light dance on the rippling surface like prancing doe.
Close to the bank, in the lee of a rocky mole, fallen leaves rollick in miniature whirlpools. And a pair of terns, eager for breakfast, finds it a perfect feeding ground. Vigilant and waiting, they catch silvery fish that flip into the air, swallowing them swiftly with few jerks of their upturned head. Kingfishers, adopting a different strategy, sweep down from limbs of trees leaning delectably into the water. Diving into the river, they come up abruptly with a quivering small fry clamped between their pointed beaks.
Life thrived here, nurtured and sustained by the river. It is as if every living thing here is rejoicing and celebrating the lift of a vibrant life nourished and enriched not only by the waters of the river but also by the sun, the winds, the very earth; in fact all the elements of nature combining in a benevolent effort, striving towards one aim — uphold and sustain the magic called life. And here, you feel connected to it. Here, you glimpse the soul of the river.
Deep echoes
About 12 km upstream, you come to Vazhachal — another waterfall, where, in sylvan surroundings, water plunges about 80 feet in white roiling froth. A body of water anywhere – a lake, river, stream or the sea — has a certain quality that touches your finer sensibilities, your deeper self. That feeling is inescapable here.
From Vazhachal, if you drive upstream, eastward, you climb further into the Sholayar ranges of the luxuriant Western Ghats. “Nearly 40 rivers spring from the Western Ghats and flow into the Arabian Sea or into the back waters,” says Cherian, the forest officer at an outpost on the way. A narrow strip of land fed by 40 odd rivers and cradled by the Arabian Sea on one side and the mountains of the Western Ghats on the other. That sums up the geography of this swath of land called Kerala. It also explains why its greenery is so rich, its flora so vibrant.
Cruising down the smooth highway, you’ll find it hard to keep your eyes on the asphalt ribbon stretching in front, hugging the undulating landscape, and at the same time savour the visual feast around you. As the road sweeps uphill, you begin to feel light-hearted; your spirits buoyant… then you realise you owe it perhaps to the oxygen rich air in the surrounding forest.
Balan Nair, the greying but lanky and moustachioed owner of a quaintly charming inn by the roadside is quite knowledgeable about the Ghats. “The Western Ghats,” he says, “is recognised worldwide as a biodiversity hotspot. It is home to threatened flora and fauna. Ignorance and man’s greed have together destroyed a lot of its richness. Fortunately, some conservation efforts are now on.” And having partaken of the richness of this land, you hope that these efforts bear fruit.
The meandering rivers, delightful waterfalls and the cool mountain air, all make for an unforgettable experience — another facet of Kerala.
